Sunday 23 October 2011

A Rush of Blood to the Head


It was a glorious sunny afternoon. It was around 12, and we had just plonked ourselves in our raft, ready for the 26-odd km ride down the hallowed curves of the Ganga. There were 4 of us , plus a guide and two of his helpers.  The water was delightfully cold, the flow frightfully strong-ideal for a great day of white water rafting. Or so we thought.


and it begins!


The first rapid, rather intuitively called ‘Good Morning’, was a pretty lazy one, it dint toss us around or slap us with sheets of water. The next one wasn’t much either, so ever the adventurous kind, we stood on the sides of the raft and tried crossing the rapid that way. No one managed to (something the guide was pretty disappointed with) but no one fell off the raft either, so that went well.

The guide shouted that we were approaching the ‘Three Blind Mice’, a grade 3 rapid, which consisted of a series of three small rapids (hence the name). Fresh with confidence, we were rowing forward with great aplomb. We struck the first rapid head-on, still rowing against the will of the water, and then it happened. We overturned.

The only thing I remember of the fall is seeing something fast and blue and swirling for a fraction of a second, and then I was out of the torrent, gasping for breath, hands trying desperately to grasp something. For a moment I was clutching the raft’s rope, and I tried to pull myself up, but the damned thing was still overturned. I felt myself being pulled under the raft. Now that was a scary thought, and I hastily managed to somehow push away from it.  I was quite ok up till now; I was kinda wishing earlier we would overturn for the heck of it.  Suddenly I felt a hand grabbing my neck, to the point of choking. Things got really scary then. It was one of my friends, he dint know how to swim and he was turning frighteningly white, swallowing water with each passing second.  If he went down, he would make sure I went with him, and that really freaked me out. It took some real effort to make him let go of my neck and grab my shoulder. We crossed the other two rapids this way, him losing more hope all the time.

After the gushing rapids had passed and we were in somewhat calm water, I looked around. One of our oars was floating close to me; I grabbed hold of it. I saw one of the helpers to my left. Heaving a sigh of relief, I asked him what to do now. The look on his face when he muttered this brought all the dread back: “Bhaiya mujhe terna nai aata!!”*^#$%#$ I cursed him for all it was worth, but it was all I could do.  Apparently, the freak was new in training, and this was the first time he’d overturned. So now I had two really scared guys clinging onto me, and this made my hands rather useless. I coaxed them to tread some water with their feet and try to make for the shore. Using the oar as a support, we managed to force our way across to dry land. Oh, the earth felt real good then! Luckily, the side we’d chosen saw the sun for most of the day, thus was thankfully dry. We climbed on top of a cliff, and saw our raft a couple of kms away on the opposite bank. The main guide guy had somehow steadied it and managed to get it to the shore. The other helper guy was trekking towards us with another of my friends, and that brought cheers.

A half-hour must’ve passed during all this, and still there was no sign of the fourth guy. My other friend was at the front when we toppled, so there was no one ahead of him, and he couldn’t be behind because the flow would’ve carried him onwards. Fearing the worst, we asked the helper (the other one, who knew how to swim) if people actually drown here. His words brought no comfort…

We shouted across to the main that we were missing a person. He went back upriver, scrambling over rocks and bushes searching for some sign of him. The waiting was unbearable. Finally we saw his head surface over the farthest ridge on the opposite bank. Phew!

We still had to hike over treacherous terrain to reach the raft. The gripe was that we were barefoot, the rocks were slowly turning hot with the sun, and God they were so sharp! It was like walking over an endless trail of hot spiky nettles. And of course no one wanted to jump back in the water again, so there was no other option but to continue this way for what seemed like eternity.

Finally we reached the raft, there were hugs all around. I guess we were pretty relieved. The guide and one of my friends had struggled some more and brought the raft across to our side of the river.  We’d lost all our paddles except the one I’d saved, so we ended up rowing with our hands for some time, until we reached a public beach. Our guide had called ahead, and there were people waiting with reinforcements. To our surprise, the guide refused to continue further, he hadn’t swallowed so much water ever and in his own words, “Mujhe khud chand sitaare dikh gaye!”. He was eventually replaced for the rest of the way. There were still 18 kms to go. There came scary rapids which tossed our raft so high that the paddle won’t reach the water and we’d be rowing in empty air. There were times we were almost vertical, and then the water would come rushing on to hit us in the face, hard. We were very determined not to fall again, so we held tight.  

On the way, we even stopped for cliff jumping. Some of us dint want to, though, the thought of being in the water again was too much to digest. The jump wasn’t much, must’ve been around 10ft or so, and I’d jumped from higher up(in a swimming pool, though). But it was swell nonetheless, the sweet splash of hitting the cold water falling through thin air. That’s me going eeehaaaaw-


 



We continued on, faced some more rapids, and finally the calm waters at Rishikesh came to embrace us. Our story had spread here; there were random strangers asking us how the whole experience was. People rarely overturned at that section of the river, so that's what all the fuss was all about.

It turns out there's a rapid called the 'Wall' further upstream, where there's roughly 1% chance of NOT overturning. Here's what it looks like:


Next destination? You bet.

X






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